Countries Archives: Fiji

Bula Maleya

COUNTRY: Fiji
LANGUAGE: Fijian

“Bula Maleya” is one of Fiji’s favorite songs. It originated with Fijian soldiers who fought, as members of the British Commonwealth, in the British military campaign to fight the Japanese in Malaysia (then Maleya) during World War II. During the battles Fijian and Malayan soldiers became friendly and wrote this song to mark their cooperation.

Fijians have adopted “Bula Maleya” as a welcome song, singing it readily to greet tourists arriving on the islands. There are a several versions of the song, some more bawdy than another, but FijiIslands.com translates the song in a way we and the kids in our classes can sing it: “Greetings Malaya and Fiji also, All the young men are very strong, Talking to the sea, gives me happiness, Hello, hello everyone. Remember Fiji, a small country, With a will to move forward, Fiji will grow to be famous, For Malaya to be known in the world, We found each other again, We will celebrate gloriously, We patriotically declare, The name of Fiji for the honour of the Queen.”

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Fiji–Meke

A Fijian meke (prounced meh-kay) is the term for a traditional, communal form of spiritual folk dance Fijian men, women and children use to convey stories or daily life or long, epic tales of victory by the gods.

The leader of a meke is called the daunivucu. The daunivucu preserves the traditional customs by channeling the spirits and teaching the community how to do a particular dance. The “orchestra” (vakatara) will motivate the dancers by steadily beating sticks, hardwood gongs or bamboo tubes, usually while sitting on the ground. Meke dancers (matana) wear garlands of flowers (salusalu). Most often women in Fiji perform meke as a fan dance, dressing in traditional skirts and applying sweet-smelling coconut oil to heighten the multisensory experience. Men, in their dancing, will dress as warriors and simulate the use of spears or clubs.

In the meke every body motion, every hand motion, the position of every performer…even position of every member of the audience is important. There are special positions in a meke for members of the village hierarchy; placing them anywhere otherwise would be an insult.

More about the meke:
TourismFiji.com introduces the meke, as well as the lovo feast and the kava/yaqona ceremony | Watch a men’s sitting meke | Watch a women’s fan meke | This men’s meke has it all–green skirts, fans, spears, sitting, standing and even a waterfall

How to sing with Jay each week in your home or classroom Support All Around This World on Patreon Enjoy interactive All Around This World lessons in your home or classroom

Fiji–Music

The term “Melanesian music,” used in the broadest sense, covers a wide range of traditional styles ranging from the multiple genres of tribal songs found in Papua New Guinean singsings to Australia’s Aboriginal didgeridoo drones, from Solomon Islanders’ polyphonic pan pipes to Fijian lali drumming. Melanesians have long used a variety of slit-log gongs, flutes and bamboo pipes in their music but only recently, with the arrival of the Europeans, have they added stringed instruments like guitars and ukeleles into the mix. Most Melanesian music features vocals and emphasizes chanting and call and response songs; unlike Polynesian music, which we’ll explore later in the session, there’s only a minimal tradition of Church-inspired polyphonic harmonies. (Fijian music blends
Melanesian and Polynesian forms and embraces multi-part harmony. We’ll learn more about Fijian music below.)

More information: Jane’s overview of Melanesian music | National Geographic’s summary of Pacific music | Hear a sampling of Melanesian music thanks to David Fanshawe’s Spirit of Melanesia | Melanesian dances are often “sitting dances,” which also separate them from the dances of Polynesia, most of which emphasize the swaying motion of the hips

MUSIC OF FIJI:
As one would imagine from learning above about the Fijian/Indo-Fijian dichotomy in Fijian society, there are both Fijian and Indo-Fijian musical traditions on the islands. Let’s
learn a little about both.

Fijian:
— Fijian folk music actually sounds more like Polynesian folk, so rich in vocal harmonies, than traditional music in other parts of Melanesia. Most Fijian folk uses guitars, ukeleles and mandolins, blending rich vocal harmonies with complex percussion performed on slit drums or “lali drums” which have long been used in Fijian culture to announce important
events like births and deaths. [Listen to clips of Fijian folk from villages from compilations on FijiBure.com | Fijian lali drummers hit that drum hard]

— Fijian string bands–groups of three or more performers playing guitar/ukelele/mandolin and singing in sweet multi-part harmony–are popular in the islands. [Let National Geographic introduce you to Savu-Savu’s Somai Serenaders, whose “music is played in a very ritualized fashion while sitting on the floor or the ground around a large bowl filled with kava juice.” Apenisa Waqa, the lead guitarist, told National Geographic, “Just imagine a couple of coconuts floating on the water, and from that we compose a song.”]

— In the 1980s Fijian pop stars such as Laisa Vulakoro popularized a style known as Vude,
which, says National Geographic’s biography of Laisa Vulakoro, “combines disco, country and island music (especially the meke rhythm) and rock and roll.” [We’ll learn about Laisa Vluakoro and meke below.]

Indo-Fijian:

Indo-Fijian music is an exciting hybrid of, well, Indian and Fijian music. Most popular are Fijian “Bhajans,” which are Hindu devotional songs that use Indian instruments such as the harmonium and the dholak. In Fiji, Qawaali music, Sufi devotional music that is especially popular in eastern Pakistan and northwestern India, has fused somewhat with the Bhajan because of a lack of trained tabla players who would otherwise accompany Qawaali. [Meet Fiji-born tabla player and, uniquely, simultaneous ghazal singer, Cassius Khan | Become a
Facebook fan of Fiji-born dholak player Sashi Roy, who plays multiple dholaks at the same time tuned to different notes, a style known as “dholak tarang.” | Enjoy a Fijian Bhajan
competition between your favorite Fijian Bhajan performers, Umesh Chand Sharma and Master Shiu Dayal Sharma
]

A Fijian song we sing in class, “Chuluchululu,” is well-known song in Fiji, though only the part of it is in Fijian. (The first few lines are Tongan? Tahitian? There are different opinions.) A duo from New Zealand, Bill and Boyd, released this popular rock version, though this informal party version is much more fun. You can also hear “Chuluchululu” performed Indo-Fijian style and, if that doesn’t quench your “Chuluchululu” thirst, Wiggles-style.

MUSIC OF THE SOLOMON ISLANDS:

If you’re looking for traditional Melanesian music in the Solomon Islands you’ll find it in droves. There are some solo performers but most of the public music in the Solomon Islands is communal and performed by organized ensembles. There are:

— Slit drum ensembles, composed of drummers who use wooden sticks to hit hollowed-out logs with slits cut into them,
— Panpipe ensembles, consisting of up to ten differently-tuned panpipes playing at once…awesome,
— Bamboo ensembles, in which Solomon Islanders pound the ends of bamboo tubes with their flip flops (Siza! Siza! Siza…! SIZA!) and even
— Water drumming ensembles. (Water drumming? Yes-siree. Most water drummers in the Solomon Islands are women slapping waist-high water with their hands, transforming the nature itself into a percussion instrument. There’s no direct link here–most of the Solomons’ water drummers are scantily clad–but if you want to see it you’ll find fine examples on YouTube.)

Today pop music from Solomon Islands is well-known around the Pacific, especially Solomon Islands reggae, though by far the most widely known recording from the Solomon Islands is not by a reggae or pop artist–not even Sharzy!–but by a woman from Northern Malaita who passed away in 1998 and may not even known she was an international star.

In the 1970s, ethnomusicologist and filmmaker Hugo Zemp recorded music from the Solomon Islands and released it as part of UNESCO (United Nations) series called “Musical Sources.” One of the songs was a traditional song from the Solomon Islands called “Rorogwela” sung by a woman named Afunakwa. In 1992 the French “ethnic electronica” group Deep Forest released “Sweet Lullaby,” which added electronic music to “Rorogwela.” The recording became an international hit…and led to much controversy over the sourcing and licensing of the song. Deep Forest claimed to have acquired the legal rights to use the music in their recording from Zemp, but Zemp disputed their account. To complicate matters, Norwegian saxophonist Jan Garbarek, inspired by the Deep Forest release, rearranged the melody of “Rorogwela” and released it as “Pygmy Lullaby,” incorrectly assuming the original song was from Central Africa like many other compositions Deep Forest used in its projects. Controversy followed Garbarek’s recording too, as Zemp and a Norwegian journalist questioned Garbarek’s use of the material without directly compensating Afunakwa or other artists from the Solomon Islands. Garbarek argued that he had complied with Norway’s licensing laws that direct royalties for songs attributed to oral tradition to a fund to support “folk music.” Anthropologist, ethnomusicologist and linguist Steven Feld, in his article, “A Sweet Lullaby for World Music,” presents a blow by blow account of these developments and places the issues they raise within the context of questions about the true benefit of the popularity of “world music” to people in the cultures from which the music comes.

More information: Listen to the original Hugo Zemp recording of “Beagu–Rorogwela” | Watch the video for Deep Forest’s “Sweet Lullaby” (you can hear Afunakwa without the backing electronica toward the end of the video, at about 4:30) | Watch a video for “Sweet Lullaby” with subtitled lyrics. The images in video are clearly not from the Solomon Islands | Listen to Jar Garbarak’s “Pygmy Lullaby” | International dance-adventurer Matt Harding goes to the Solomon Islands searching for Afunakwa | A similar controversy surrounds the Enigma hit, “Return to Innocence.” (Here is “Return to Innocence.” Here are the original vocalists.)

In class we’re going to listen to:
— Luisa Vulakoro, “Marama ni Yacata” Luisa Vulakoro, known as the Vude (pronounced “vu-n-day”) Queen, and “Fjiji’s Living National Treasure,” is one of the most popular Fijian singers of all time, and, according to National Geographic’s biography of Vulakoro, must be incredibly busy: in addition to touring globally as a singer Vulakoro has been director of the Fiji Performing Rights Association, a resident singer a the Regent of Fiji and the Sheraton Fiji Resorts and “a charity worker” who helps underprivileged women, orphans and the blind. Enjoy Vulakoro’s “Koira Na Vuda.” | Wikipedia’s entry on Vulakoro says the government raided her house in Suva after she criticized the 2006 military coup

— Melody Rascals Group, “Walkabout Long Chinatown,” In the 50’s, Solomon Islander musician named Edwin Nanau Sitori wrote the song “Walkabout Long Chinatown” in Solomons pijin. The song refers to Chinatown in the Solomon Islands’ capital city, Honiara. After World War II, men who worked for the hospital would cross through Honiara’s Chinatown on their way to their distant living quarters, hoping to meet nurses there. The song became instantly popular in the Solomon Islands and went on, according to The Solomon Islands’ Office of Prime Minister and Cabinet’s report on the song, “Wakabauti long Chinatown: The Song, the Composers, the Storyline,” to become “the national song of not only Solomon Islands, but also of Melanesia.” Says the Office of the Prime Minister: “In faraway countries grown men have linked arms and become very emotional while singing it.” Will you link arms and become emotional while singing “Walkabout Long Chinagown?” Listen to Five Star’s reggae-ish version and you’ll see.

Fiji–When You Go There

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Most Westerners who travel to Fiji go there for a great vacation. That’s not a bad thing to do–Melanesian islanders need your tourist dollars, you need a tan. Still, the Melanesian islands have a lot more to offer than just a snorkel and a smile.

Many of the Fijian islands, especially those of Mamanuca and Yasawa, are quite extraordinary–coral reefs, sandy beaches, water blue and clear as water ought to be–and aren’t you flying all the way to Fiji for something extraordinary? On the other hand, if you want to get a taste of the real Fiji, spend at least a moment between your beach-friendly adventures in Suva, the capital of Fiji, the largest city in the South Pacific and also one of its most multicultural; David Stanley’s “Fiji Travel Guide,” which describes Fiji as “a rich mixture of vibrant, exuberant Melanesians, North Beach, Mana Island, Fiji East Indians, Polynesians, Micronesians, Chinese, and Europeans, each with a cuisine and culture of their own.” Especially note the unique interplay between Melanesian Fijians and Indo-Fijians. (Don’t worry about getting too cultural in Fiji and forgetting why you came; as Lonely Planet’s Fiji page reminds us, “Those that arrive with notions of cocktails on alabaster beaches are seldom disappointed.”)

In the Solomon Islands you’ll find incredible lagoons, snorkeling, fishing, sunken World War II era ships that make for great scuba diving, and so many other ways to enjoy the ocean or sun. The Solomon Islands experienced some difficult times during the Civil War and tourists were definitely less safe, but as tensions eased travelers have again become welcome. If you take a chance and step out of your resort you’ll find the people in the Solomon Islands–most of whom are subsistence farmers who live as they have for eons–to be welcoming, relaxed and, says Lonely Planet’s Solomon Islands page, no longer cannibals! (David Stanley’s “Solomon Islands Travel Guide” says, “It’s all there: shark-callers, war wreckage, gold, and malaria.” Sounds like fun…?)

Fiji–History

There is disagreement among historians and archaeologists as to exactly when humans came to Fiji, though the general consensus is that people had arrived in the islands by about 1,500 B.C. There is agreement that two distinct groups settled Fiji; Melanesians,
dark-skinned settlers who arrived in Fiji by way of Vanuatu, New Caledonia and the Solomon Islands, and lighter-skinned Lapita people, skilled navigators and fishers from New Caledonia who had originated in Southeast Asia’s Malay Peninsula. Later, the Lapita people left Fiji for islands further east, seeding the Polynesian islands like Tonga and Samoa. This left Fiji primarily to the Melanesians.

Whoever settled the place and when, Fiji is an archipelago that consists of more than 330 islands, of which only about a third are inhabited. Most people live on the two main islands, Vanua Levu and Viti Levu; because Viti Levu’s interior is rugged most Fijians who call the island home live in the surprisingly urban Suva.

While the first European to visit Fiji was a Dutch explorer who came in the mid-1600s, and the noted English sailor James Cook came by in 1774, the most popular navigator to “discover” Fiji was Captain William Bligh, who sailed there between 1789 and 1792 after the infamous mutiny on the H.M.S. Bounty. The British began to colonize in the 19th
century, first with a smattering of shipwrecked sailors and runaway convicts from Australia, then with missionaries intent on converting Fijians to Christianity.

Before the British colonized, Fiji was an island of many languages, many diverse tribes and many cannibals. (If you’re a grown-up and curious about such gruesome things, you may be interested in looking up Ratu Udre Udre, Fiji’s “most prolific cannibal.”) There was also a lot of fighting between Melanesian tribes, as well as a period of increased Melanesian European tension in the 1860s and early 1870s because of “blackbirding,” the practice of tricking or kidnapping people to become laborers, which some European cotton plantation owners did to Melanesians from the New Hebrides (Vanuatu) and the Solomon Islands. The British officially declared Fiji a colony in 1874, ultimately resulting in a relaxation of inter-tribal tensions and a decrease in the amount of blackbirding. The British actually instituted laws that assured Fijians could have title to their own lands would not become low wage laborers, but they still needed inexpensive labor for their sugar and cotton plantations. The British therefore brought about 60,000 Indians to do the work. These Indians became the ancestors of the today’s substantial population of Indo-Fijians.

When the British granted Fiji its independence in 1970 they not only left it as a parliamentary democracy but they also left political tensions between the roughly equal number of Indo-Fijian and Melanesian-Fijians. There is also a small group known as Part-Europeans who are descendants of Australians, Americans or European plantation-owners who had children with Fijian women. Another distinct group, Rotumans, are of Polynesian ethnicity and come from the island of Rotuma, which became part of Fiji in 1881.

Facing such deeply entrenched ethnic divisions, Fiji has had a difficult time forming and maintaining a stable government–recent Fijian history has been an ongoing series of coups. In general Melanesian-Fijians have believed Indo-Fijians to possess more political and economic power, though that’s not necessarily the case. Whichever group has power, civil and political uncertainty have inspired much Indo-Fijian emigration, shifting the balance of the islands’ majority rule to the Melanesians. Today about 55% of Fijians are Melanesian and a diminishing percentage, about 40%, are Indo-Fijians.

Despite its internal instability Fiji is still one of the main powers in the region. Fiji is a founding member of the Melanesian Spearhead Group, an intergovernmental organization
that consists of Fiji, the Solomon Islands, Papua New Guinea, Vanuatu and New Caledonia, and has the largest and most powerful army in the region. (Okay, so there are only about 3,500 soldiers in the Fijian Army. But since almost every country in the region has no army, 3,500 Fijians with guns is a whole lot.)

Will Fiji be able to overcome its ethnically divided past to pull its politics together? As of this writing (February 2013), Fiji is under the rule of Commodore “Frank” Voreqe Bainimarama. (Australia’s Sydney Morning Herald calls Bainimarama, a Melanesian-Fijian, “a cross between Saddam Hussein and Forrest Gump.”) Elections are tentatively scheduled for 2014. Will Bainimarama allow the elections to go forward? Will there be another ethnically-charged coup? Will Melanesian-Fijians, Indo-Fijians, Polynesian-Fijians and Part-European Fijians find some way to get along?

More information:
About.com’s overview of Fiji | Fijiguide.com’s Fiji FAQ: “Q: Are the people friendly? A: Very friendly.” | Fijians love to drink kaya (yaqona): “[T]he act of sharing a bowl creates an invisible bond between the participants. The visitor feels a warmth and acceptance among complete strangers that is normally associated with family or close friends. (The formal kaya-sharing ceremony is called a sevusevu) | Jane’s guide to Indo-Fijian History and Culture (Postcard images of Indo-Fijians provide a history in and of themselves) | The Guardian’s take on the 2006 coup