Countries Archives: New Caledonia

New Caledonia–Pilou

In class we experience New Caledonia’s “pilou” dance. Each pilou tells a particular Kanak story, whether of a birth, marriage, great battle or even the arrival of missionaries. While the term “pilou-pilou” encompassed many kinds of pre-colonial Kanak ceremonies, the pilou dance itself is a “round-dance” that traditionally involves many people moving together around a central pole, sometimes for hours at a time. The dancers’ feet make a “sh-sh-sh-sh” sound as the dancers move from foot to foot, hopping on one foot while stamping the other. Sometimes dancers hold straw which sways as the body shifts from side do side. The French colonial authorities banned pilou in the mid-20th century because they feared the trances Kanaks entered while dancing, but in class we love trances! Let’s try the pilou.

More information:
Watch pilou dancers shake it shake it shake it! (non-circularly) | Watch Tim Sameke’s “Pilou,” taking the pilou dancers into the modern age | Watch We Ce Ca, New Caledonia’s most popular dance troupe, doing a dance that, while it may not be pilou, is still pretty great

New Caledonia–Music

he traditional/folk music of both New Caledonia and Vanuatu is Melanesian in nature, meaning it features vocal chants and instruments like log drums rather than the melodic, Church-inspired multi-part harmonies prevalent in Polynesian music. Modern musicians from both sets of islands have adopted guitars and keyboards and have embraced global genres like rock and reggae. Still, when they go back to their roots, they find those roots in the percussion and chants of their Melanesian forefathers.

In New Caledonia most every traditional ceremony or community event is musical, with much singing, playing of conch shells, drums and bamboo flutes and, of course, dancing. The pilou dance is especially important in the Kanak culture; according to Jane’s Melanesian music page, “The traditional pilou dance tells the stories of births, marriages, cyclones or preparations for battle, although colonial authorities banned pilous in 1951 for the high-energy and trance-like state they induced in the dancers.” We’ll learn more about the Pilou below.

As the New Caledonian independence movement rose in the mid 1980s, so rose a genre known as “kaneka,” which fuses the traditional music of the indigenous New Caledonian people with global world pop. According to Mondomix.com’s “Kaneka music, a banner of identity for the Kanak people of New Caledonia,” kaneka music “allied traditional rhythms, like the ‘chap’ and ‘bua’, the ‘aé aé’ chants from local ceremonies and dance tempos with modern instrumentation….Kaneka was a federating music and its artists carried their share of responsibility for allying the Melanesians in their quest for a modern identity.” Despite kaneka’s popularity in New Caledonia only a very small number of artists, like the kaneka-reggae artist Edou, became known beyond the islands’ border. We’ll learn more about him Edou below.

Kaneka’s popularity in New Caledonia ebbed and flowed with the Kanak enthusiasm for independence. Mondomix suggests that the upcoming move toward independence, as mentioned in the history section above, is creating a fertile landscape for the reemergence of kaneka, and this time kaneka may become a global musical force.

More information:
Listen to tracks from “Kaneka Lounge: The Music of New Caledonia” | Watch Kaneka sensation Gurejele perform “Waipeipeigu” live in Paris | Watch the excellent Gulaan of “Ok Ryo’s” perform live (the song sounds like it could be African or vaguely Afro-Cuban, or many things…never would have guessed kaneka)

Traditional music of Vanuatu is known, in Bislama, as “kastom singsing” or “kastom tanis.” This is a blanket term that covers everything from tamtam/slit gong drumming to wonderful drum and vocal music like this. Most kastom singsing is drum-based, though some adds bamboo flutes and conch shells to the mix.

A more modern and quite popular style of music in Vanuatu is called “stringband.” Like the stringband music of Papua New Guinea, this genre adds guitars and other stringed instruments. [Listen to some Vanuatu stringband here. And some more here–great stuff.] International music such as zouk and reggaeton are also popular, both with ni-Vanuatu and with tourists who have spent the day on the beach, have bellies full after a grand Vanuatan dinner and flock to nightclubs to dance their sunburns away.

More information:
Wikipedia on the music of Vanuatu | Watch Huarere perform Vanuatan reggae | Check this out–Vanuatu water drumming! (the drumming with singing starts at about 1:30)

In class we’re going to listen to:

— Edou, “Millio” Edou, a member of the Drueulu Tribe which is based in the Lifou (Loyalty Islands), rose to New Caledonian popularity in the mid-80s and went on to tour the Pacific Islands and beyond with his inventive form of kaneka-reggae. When the reviewer who wrote National Geographic World Music’s profile of Edou saw Edou perform at the South Pacific music festival, the artist’s “first rate” band included New Caledonia’s minister of culture. Fortunately, “The minister can really jam.” Watch from on-stage as Edou and his first rate band perform “Océnie” live. Watch Edou’s video for “Le Dela” (you can actually see his face in this one).

— Vanessa Quai: “A Roro Karea
Vanessa Quai is Vanuatu’s most widely-known female vocalist and one of the only ni-Vanuatu musicians to have toured beyond the Pacific. Quai has been singing professionally since she was nine years old and launched her career by placing third out of 3,000 singers in the Gospel/Inspirational Category at the South Pacific International Song contest and first in the Nile International Children Song Contest in Cairo. Quai’s songs range from gospel to reggae to hip hop to R&B. She sings in many languages such as Motu, Tok Pisin and Fijian.

More information:
Wikipedia on Vanessa Quai | Watch Quai’s video for “Galala Kece Sara” | Visit

Vanessa Quai’s official website: “Vanessa is currently known as the Region Song Bird and the Youngest Pacific Queen in Music.”

New Caledonia–Language

French is the most widely spoken language in New Caledonia; according to the 2009
census
, 97.3% of people aged 15 or older reported they could speak, read and write French, whereas only 1.1% reported that they had no knowledge of French. There are 28 Kanak languages still spoken in New Caledonia (see above for information about the Kanaks), though, says that very same 2009 census, only about a third of New Caledonians aged 15 or older can speak one, and more than half of all New Caledonians aren’t familiar with any of them.

New Caledonia–History

NEW CALEDONIA, also known as Kanaky, is in many ways a very surprising place. Nicknamed “Le Caillou (The Stone),” the surface of this Melanesian archipelago’s main island, Grand Terre, is essentially composed of nickel, chromium, magnesium, and manganese, a mix that should be toxic to plants. In New Caledonia, it’s not. In New Caledonia, plants that should not technically be able to survive have developed specific mechanisms that allow them to cope with, even to thrive in, such harsh conditions. Looking at the history of New Caledonia, one may say the same about the island nation’s indigenous Kanak people. French colonization of New Caledonia was harsh. There was economic and physical exploitation, there was apartheid-like segregation and forced relocation to Kanak-only reservations…at many turns Kanak population could easily have disappeared. The fact that today the Kanaks are the main political force in potentially-soon-to-be-independent New Caledonia is a testament to their unique survival instinct.

First “discovered” by British Captain James Cook in 1774, who named the islands “New Caledonia” because they reminded him of Scotland, New Caledonia soon came under the thumb of the French. The island’s first economic success was sandalwood, and when that industry petered out the colonizers participated in the decidedly more horrendous act of “Blackbirding”– the process of enslaving people from poor islands such as New Caledonia to work in Fijian or Australian sugar cane plantations.

In 1853, under orders from Napoleon III, French troops took New Caledonia and turned it into a penal colony, shipping over 20,000 prisoners there until the transportations ended in 1897. The French didn’t just ship thieves and brigands to New Caledonia; they also sent political prisoners there, such as famous “Communards” Henri de Rochefort and Louise Michel. The French colonialists kept their economic gains in New Caledonia away from the islanders; instead of employing the Kanak people the French imposed an apartheid-like system known as “Code de l’Indégnat,” restricting their freedom of movement and forbidding them them from owning land.

During World War II New Caledonia’s fate finally changed when the U.S.-dominated Allied navy used the islands as a base. At one point there were 50,000 U.S. troops in New Caledonia, about equal to the islands’ population at the time. After the war the French finally granted New Caledonia status as an “overseas territory” and in 1953 gave all New Caledonians, no matter what their ethnicity, French citizenship.

Today there are still tensions in New Caledonia between descendants of European settlers (known as Caldoches), Polynesian immigrants and Melanesian Kanaks; as of 2009, 40% of the New Caledonian population considers itself part of the Kanak community, and about 35% claim community affiliation as “European.” In 1998, after numerous Kanak revolts and the development of increasingly power independence movement, France signed the Nouema Accord, which worked out a 20 year plan that transferred much political power from France into the hands of New Caledonians. Some time between 2013 and 2018 there will be a referendum that will allow long term residents of New Caledonia to decide if they want to become fully independent. Will they decide to go out on their own? We shall see….

More information:

Earth Island Journal provides an overview of New Caledonia history in “Paradise traded for Canadian nickel.” (New Caledonia has 1/4 of the world’s supply of nickel.) | Jane’s Oceania on the recent history New Caledonia, focusing on the struggle for independence | “New Caledonia” vs. “Kanaky?” | More about the unfortunate practice of “backbirding”

 

Lesson 5: New Caledonia

NEW CALEDONIA, also known as Kanaky, is in many ways a very surprising place. Nicknamed “Le Caillou (The Stone),” the surface of this Melanesian archipelago’s main island, Grand Terre, is essentially composed of nickel, chromium, magnesium, and manganese, a mix that should be toxic to plants. In New Caledonia, it’s not. In New Caledonia, plants that should not technically be able to survive have developed specific mechanisms that allow them to cope with, even to thrive in, such harsh conditions. Looking at the history of New Caledonia, one may say the same about the island nation’s indigenous Kanak people. French colonization of New Caledonia was harsh. There was economic and physical exploitation, there was apartheid-like segregation and forced relocation to Kanak-only reservations…at many turns Kanak population could easily have disappeared. The fact that today the Kanaks are the main political force in potentially-soon-to-be-independent New Caledonia is a testament to their unique survival instinct.

First “discovered” by British Captain James Cook in 1774, who named the islands “New Caledonia” because they reminded him of Scotland, New Caledonia soon came under the thumb of the French. The island’s first economic success was sandalwood, and when that industry petered out the colonizers participated in the decidedly more horrendous act of “Blackbirding”– the process of enslaving people from poor islands such as New Caledonia to work in Fijian or Australian sugar cane plantations.

In 1853, under orders from Napoleon III, French troops took New Caledonia and turned it into a penal colony, shipping over 20,000 prisoners there until the transportations ended in 1897. The French didn’t just ship thieves and brigands to New Caledonia; they also sent political prisoners there, such as famous “Communards” Henri de Rochefort and Louise Michel. The French colonialists kept their economic gains in New Caledonia away from the islanders; instead of employing the Kanak people the French imposed an apartheid-like system known as “Code de l’Indégnat,” restricting their freedom of movement and forbidding them them from owning land.

During World War II New Caledonia’s fate finally changed when the U.S.-dominated Allied navy used the islands as a base. At one point there were 50,000 U.S. troops in New Caledonia, about equal to the islands’ population at the time. After the war the French finally granted New Caledonia status as an “overseas territory” and in 1953 gave all New Caledonians, no matter what their ethnicity, French citizenship.

Today there are still tensions in New Caledonia between descendants of European settlers (known as Caldoches), Polynesian immigrants and Melanesian Kanaks; as of 2009, 40% of the New Caledonian population considers itself part of the Kanak community, and about 35% claim community affiliation as “European.” In 1998, after numerous Kanak revolts and the development of increasingly power independence movement, France signed the Nouema Accord, which worked out a 20 year plan that transferred much political power from France into the hands of New Caledonians. Some time between 2013 and 2018 there will be a referendum that will allow long term residents of New Caledonia to decide if they want to become fully independent. Will they decide to go out on their own? We shall see….