Countries Archives: Turkey

Tren Gelir

COUNTRY: Turkey
LANGUAGE: Turkish

In class we sing “Tren Gelir” about a Turkish train coming, bringing all our friends. Of course kids love a train, but they must truly wonder at the many viable transportation options they have when they visit Turkey — airplanes, trams, motorbikes, bicycles, boats and ferries, car rentals, even seaplanes. Rail travel, though not traditionally the most accessible way to traverse this large country, continues to improve with each mile of new high-speed service. The nation’s superstar form of transport, though, has long been the bus. For short trips, take a dolmus (which means “stuffed,”) a packed minibus you share with anyone going your way. For longer trips, even overnight, ride a long haul coach. It’s comfy! There will be sandwiches, bottled water and, on overnight trips, an attendant who may come along and spray a puff of perfume.

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Turkey–Turkish Bath

The Turkish bath, also known as the Hammam, is an Ottoman-era tradition that combines the ancient Roman baths (thermae) with the Asian Turkish tradition of ritual cleansing by bathing in steam. Today taking a Turkish bath is an adventure, done both because it is a bit indulgent and because it can be just plain fun.

Like the Roman thermae a Turkish hammam consists of three rooms which bathers visit in
succession:

— the warm room, known as the tepidarium, in which the bathers, many of whom are wearing little but a silk wrap known as a peştemal and wooden clogs called nalın, often decorated with silver or mother-of-pearl, so they won’t slip on the wet floor, relax before
going to…

— the hot room, known as the sıcaklık (or hararet -caldarium). This room usually has some dim natural light streaming in from a window and a large marble stone, known as the göbek taşı, or “tummy stone,” in the middle on which customers lie and get a soapy
scrub massage from a masseuse wearing a rough mitt known as a kese and using a metal
bowl known as a tas for pouring water over the body. After visiting the hot room the bathers splash in cold water and retire to…

— the cool room, the soğukluk, or the frigidarium, to relax, take a nap, drink a bit
of tea then get dressed.

In class we’re actually going to pretend to take a Turkish bath, complete with an imaginary transition from warm to hot to cold, topping our adventure off with a bit of apple tea.

More information:
All about the Turkish bath from AllAboutTurkey.com, including more detail about some of the bathing implements mentioned above | I probably shouldn’t offer an active link here because the video in question involves a bunch of dudes wearing towels washing each other, but if you want to see Monty Python’s Michael Palin takes a Turkish Bath as part of his visit to Istanbul for his BBC travel series, you’ll find it worth your while to watch it on YouTube

That’s more than enough information about Turkey to chew on for one week…one may even call it a Turkish delight. Though one probably shouldn’t.

Turkey–Music

Turkish traditional music is–surprise!!–a fusion of genres from East and West. Turkish classical and folk music find inspiration not only in genres from Central Asia where the Turkic people originated, but also in the music of the many cultures the Ottomans dominated during their empire, from Persia to the Balkans, the Caucasus to North Africa. Turkish classical music has a special kinship with with Arabic music, most notably in its concept of “modes,” or “maqamat” (refer the West Asian/Middle Eastern overview I’ll send some time over the next few weeks for an introduction to the system of maqams). TurkishMusicPortal.com’s makam page emphasizes the complexity of what the Turks call “makams,” Each makam is a compilation of notes with a particular relationship to one another that, when used as the foundation of a composition, elicit a particular mood. Turkish classical music masters are able to wring every last bit of emotion out of a
composition’s chosen makam.

The basic rhythmic construct of Turkish classical music is “usul.” Much like the Indian rhythmic concept of tala, the Turkish usul is the rhythmic cycle that underlies a
composition. Students of Turkish classical music internalize the usul of songs by hitting their knees with their hands while they sing it using “vocables,” such as

düm, dü-üm,
tek, tekkyaa, and
teke, te-ek.

If you’re a musical master yourself, visit this “Turkish music resource sheet” to see if you
can make sense of the makams and usul. (Tetrachords? Pentachords? Usul ratios? “Whilst Western music commonly uses the 12 tone octave, basic Makam use 53….”)

Turkish traditional music uses many instruments
that are familiar throughout the Arab world, such as the oud, the doumbek (which Turks
call the darbukathere are some differences between the two) and the diaire/tef. Turkish music also features a stringed instrument known as the baglama and a “fipple flute” known as the ney or kavul, both of which are prevalent through Central Asia and Persia, and the davul which is a prime drum of choice in the Balkans. Check out TurkishMusicPortal.org’s instrument pages for a straightforward introduction to instruments used in Turkish folk and classical music.

Turkish musicians have so much practice weaving their from other parts of the world in their music that when global communication became all the rage in the middle of the 20th century one of the first things Turks did was internalize international melodies and rhythms into their music. From the 1960s to the ’90s the most dynamic musical genre in Turkey was “Arabesque,” a genre of Arabic-style music that Turkish musicians infused with scales and rhythms from global genres such as Balkan brass, blues, jazz and funk. Arabesque music has not always met with a warm reception in Turkey…to put it mildly. To get a sense of the complex forces at work here, read this analysis of Arabesque music and its nuanced place in Turkish culture.

In the late 1960s, Turks rocked out to Western psychedelic and progressive music, resulting in the formation of a local genre called Anatolian (or Andalou) Rock. We’ll touch on Anatolian Rock below when we introduce Baba Cem Karaca.

Today Turkey’s homegrown bands run the gamut of global musical genres and approach music from most every conceivable angle. Turkey’s music fans do keep their ears open to Turkish bands, but have also succumbed to the most international of international pop. For example, the track that spent the most weeks in 2009 on top of the “The Türkiye Top 20,” Billboard Magazine’s pop music chart for Turkey was by the not-very-Turkish Brittney Spears.

More information:
National Geographic on the music of Turkey | Let TurkishMusicPortal.org introduce you to the concepts of Turkish traditional music | Let Istanbulmusic.blogspot.com introduce you to both the scions of Turkish classical music and to over a hundred great modern Turkish bands

In class we’re going to listen to:
— Aynur: “Rewend”
Aynur Dogan is a controversial Kurdish singer from Turkey whose “offense,” in the eyes of some Turks, is that she is Turkish but sings songs in the Kurdish language. Born in 1975 in Cemisgezek, a small town in the southeastern Turkish mountains, Aynur and her family moved to Istanbul to avoid the struggles in their town between the Turkish Army and the Kurdish resistance. The Turkish government’s loosening restrictions on public use of the Kurdish language in 2004 gave Aynur the opportunity to not only perform but to rise to stardom. She has since been an outspoken advocate for the Kurdish people and their right to make art their own language.

In class we’ll sing a version of Aynur’s song “Rewend,” which we’ll call “Eman.” The song is a protest against the Turkish government and its international supporters’ plan to build the Ilisu Dam, which would decimate the Kurdish village of Heskif (Hasankeyf in Turkish).

More information:
Aynur booed for singing in Kurdish at the “Women of Water” concert | See Aynur’s video for “Rewend” | Aynur headlines San Francisco’s “Voices of Kurdistan” | See Aynur perform “Kéçe Kurdan” live. The chorus: “Yes we are Kurdish girls, we live we are lions, We are the pride of men.”

— Orhan Gencebay, “Kir-Gonlunun-Zincirini”
Orhan Gecenbay is one of the giants of the Turkish entertainment industry. In his monumental career Gencebay has been the lead actor in almost 40 movies, composed an estimated thousand songs and sold over 65 million records. Musically, Genecbay pioneered a multifaceted mix of Turkish and international sounds. Wikipedia describes the
genre like this: “During the 1970s [Gencebay] released many singles in a new genre that is a fusion of traditional Turkish Folk music, Turkish classical music, Western classical music, jazz, rock, country, progressive, psychedelic, Indian, Arabic, Spanish, and Greek music styles.” Rather than call this new genre “Turko-folko-clasico-jazzy- rocky-country prog-psych-Indi-Arab-Spania-Greek” music, musicologists termed it “Arabesque.” Gencebay didn’t like this categorization because it initially implied that he stole his songs from Arabic music he heard on the radio, but the term “Arabesque” has since grown to become synonymous with Turkish music about heartache, longing and even deep suffering. In that way, Arabesque is the Turkish equivalent of the blues.

More information:
Orhan’s bio on TurkishMusicClub.com | Orhan was a central figure in the 2005 documentary about Turkish music called “Crossing the Bridge: The Sound of Istanbul” | Not only has Orhan always been one good-looking man, but he somehow gets better-looking with age | Hey Yabanci! | No wonder Orhan ia a film star

— Cem Karaca: “Bir Retmene At”
We also definitely want to take note of Cem Karaca, one of Turkey’s most extraordinary progressive rockers. Karaca, known to his fans as “Cem Baba” (Father Cem), was an Armenian-Azerbaijani Turk who came to embody the politically active and artistically ambitious Turkish generation of the late ’60s and early ’70s. Cem Baba began his career in an Elvis cover band known as “Jaguars” but by the ’70s had moved on, becoming part of the pioneering Anatolian Rock band Moğollar (The Mongols) before the band left Turkey to seek, and eventually find, fame in France. For the next decade Karaca performed both as a solo artist and with several popular bands, his powerfully political lyrics angering successive Turkish governments enough to inspire one to issue a warrant for his arrest in 1980. Karaca was in West Germany at the time and lived in exile there until 1987 when the Turkish government granted him amnesty and invited him back. He passed away in 2004 and remains a legend.

Of Karaca’s many performances available on YouTube, “Namus Belasi” one of Moğollar’s greatest hits, sticks out for both the great melody of the song and the undeniably awesome video. “Islak Islak is a favorite as well, if only for the joy of the hat and mustache alone.

In class throughout the season we’re going to sing Cem Karaca’s “Bo Sun Olsun,” Karaca’s bittersweet homage to the hope of youth.

More information:
This page about Cem Karacla on the Prog Rock archives site follows the development of the rocker’s career | Wow. | A comprehensive Cem Baba discography

Turkey–Language

In Turkey the language you speak is not merely the language you speak; instead, your choice of language as a citizen of Turkey speaks volumes about your politics, history and ethnic identity. Especially if your language of choice is Kurdish.

More than 90% of people in Turkey speak Turkish as their primary language, and that’s not just happenstance; the Turkish Constitution confirms that “no language other than Turkish shall be taught as a mother tongue to Turkish citizens at any institutions of training or education.” While you may hear dozens of other languages when you visit Turkey–among them are Dimli, Kabardian, Adyghe, Kirmanjki and, lest we forget, Hértevin–the country’s main linguistic challenger, and the preferred language of up to 10% its population, is Kumanji (Northern Kurdish). Modern Turkey has never welcomed the Kurdish language, and especially forbade teaching of Kurdish in Turkish schools; Turkey only legally allowed people to speak Kurdish in public in 1991. Turkish Kurds and their advocates have long decried this as a conscious policy of ethnic manipulation; some even call it “linguistic genocide.” Turkey’s complex Kurdish-language policies play a key role in the nation’s
negotiations to join the European Union, and consistently merit comment in the E.U.’s
evaluations of Turkey’s progress toward accession. For example, despite some public advances, the 2010 European Commission’s Progress Report on Turkey (read a pdf of the report) expresses its ongoing disappointment with Turkey’s handling of the Kurdish language in a clear, albeit understated way: “Full respect for and protection of language,
culture and fundamental rights, in accordance with European standards have yet to be fully achieved.”

Intending no slight to the Kurds, in class we’re going to say hello and goodbye in Turkish:

Hello: Selam (“hi”)
Goodbye: Güle Güle (says the one who stays behind)

Turkey–Travel

There are so very many reasons you must visit Turkey. If you’re a tourist interested in interesting tourist things that will demonstrate Turkey as a place where ancient meets modern, East meets West, Turkey has many of them. Istanbul’s Sultanahme
(Old Istanbul)
district itself is chock full of them–the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sofia and the Byzantine Hippodrome just to name a few–and other sites in Istanbul, such as the
Grand Bazaar
, are no less grand. Venture outside of Istanbul and you can visit Ephesus,
a former Roman city that has ruins aplenty, explore the unique rock formations of Cappadocia, where the earliest Christians and many others before and after them lived in caves and in underground rock cities, and even plant yourself for a while on the insanely gorgeous “blue lagoon” beach at Ölüdeniz. On the other hand, if you’re a
traveler interested in truly connecting with the complexity of the East-meets-West-ness of today’s Turkey, while you should still visit all the places listed above and more, ditch the guidebook every once in a while and just let yourself be. Stroll slowly down the very modern Istiklal pedestrian and shopping street, watching Turks and tourists alike shop, eat at fine restaurants and otherwise engage in contemporary commerce. Wander around the Grand Bazaar and note not just the many tourists getting hoodwinked into paying too much for too little carpet, but the Turks who shop not only inside the bazaar but at
the stalls on the market’s periphery. (Observe how the shopping experiences are so diametrically different, yet how they both appear to make sense in modern Istanbul.) Or, better yet, to really have a chance at becoming familiar with the real nuances of real Turks’ lives, get out of Istanbul, go to a town that’s not even listed in your guidebook, get off the “slow yet silent” intercity bus, go to the local street food stand and just talk with people
about the ins and outs of living at the crossroads of the continents. Even better yet, have
those talks with the people in Turkish. (Note: To follow this suggestion you may have to learn to speak Turkish.)

Ney

A ney is an ancient end-blown flute, made of cane or reed, that is popular in Arabic, Persian and Turkish music. Typically a Persian ney has six holes — five on the front, one on the back for the thumb– while Arabic neys have a sixth front hole. The Turkish version has six holes on the front, one in the back, and also a small flared mouthpiece, traditionally crafted from ivory or buffalo horn but today most often made of plastic, called a “bashpare.”

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Sufi Music


[Information about sufi music coming soon.]

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Bu Son Olsun

COUNTRY: Turkey
LANGUAGE: Turkish

This is a tune composed by Turkish writer/producer Mehmet Soyarslan and popularized by Turkish/Anatolian progressiver rocker Cem Karaca, a giant in the annals of Turkish rock who took Turkish folk music “electric” much like Bob Dylan did in the U.S. Karaca’s performances were stirring—he began his career as part of an Elvis cover band—and his lyrics were powerfully personal and political. This page about Cem Karaca on the Prog Rock archives site follows the development of his career. Of his many performances available on YouTube, “Namus Belasi” sticks out for both the great melody of the song and the undeniably awesome video. “Islak Islak” is a close second, if for the joy of the hat and crooked mustache alone. The lyrics of both songs were too dark and political to make them good candidates for class. “Bu Son Olsun,” is also melodic, and is lyrically sweet as well.

 

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Ya Mustapha


COUNTRY: many, such as Egypt, Lebanon and Turkey
LANGUAGE: French, Arabic, Turkey (many versions)

GENRE: Bellydance

This is a popular belly dancing song with unclear origins, most likely Egypt, though it’s apparently also well-known throughout the region (see how “A Song Conquers the World.”) The most widely recognized versions are by the Egyptian-born Lebanese singer Bob Azzam, who released the song in France in 1960, and U.S.-based Middle Eastern/bellydancing musician, George Abdo, though versions have been recorded around the world, such as this playful one from Turkey.

Lyrics of All Around This World version:

Cherie je tiame, Cherie je t’adore, Como la salsa del pomodoro.
Cherie je tiame, Cherie je t’adore, Como la salsa del pomodoro.
Darling I love you, without you I am lost
I love you more than tomato sauce
Darling I love you, without you I am lost
I love you more than tomato sauce

 

Ya Mustapha, ya Mustapha, oh how I love you Mustapha
After all that we’ve been through I want to be back at home with you

 

I see you in the market I see you on the street
I see you in the faces of all the friends I meet
You have been away so long I see you when I sing this song
You have been away so long I see you when I sing this song

 

Ya Mustapha, ya Mustapha, oh how I love you Mustapha
After all that we’ve been through I want to be back at home with you

[/wpspoiler]

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Siki Siki Baba

COUNTRY: Macedonia, Turkey
LANGUAGE: original) Turkish or Arabic

This song is originally Turkish or Arabic in origin — “siki siki baba” seems to mean “strict strict father” — but worked its way to Macedonia where the Kocani Orkestar arranged this amazing version (which is only obscured by a passers-by rear end for a few seconds). You should definitely also watch a video of this awe-inspiring version by the U.S.-based Balkan brass-influenced band, Beirut.

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